The lever on hair clippers is a small but essential feature that controls how close the blades cut. By moving the lever up (closed) or down (open), you adjust the cutting length without changing the guard. This gives more flexibility and precision while trimming hair. It’s especially useful for blending, tapering, and creating fades.
How the Clipper Lever Works Mechanically
Inside the clipper, two blades move rapidly against each other. The lever changes their alignment by pushing the moving blade slightly forward or backward. When the lever is closed, the blades come closer together, cutting hair shorter. When it’s open, the blades move apart, leaving slightly longer hair. This adjustment is usually around 0.5–1.5 mm difference, which can make a big impact in haircutting.
Lever Positions: Open, Mid, and Closed
- Closed position: Cuts the hair shortest. Great for sharp outlines and close trims.
- Mid position: Offers a medium length, ideal for blending two sections smoothly.
- Open position: Leaves more length, perfect for soft fades and gradual transitions.
Knowing when to open or close the lever gives more control, especially when fading or tapering.
Using the Lever for Fades and Blending
Barbers rely heavily on the lever for seamless fades. For example, they may start with the lever open to create a longer base, then gradually close it as they move up the head to blend shorter lengths. Lever play (constantly adjusting the lever while cutting) creates smooth transitions and eliminates harsh lines.
Lever vs. Guards: What’s the Difference?
Clipper guards change the cutting length more drastically, while the lever fine-tunes the length. Think of the lever as a micro-adjuster and the guard as a macro-adjuster. You can use both together: attach a #2 guard with the lever open for a slightly longer cut, or close it for a tighter finish.
Different Types of Clippers and Their Levers
Not all clippers have levers. Adjustable blade clippers (like Wahl or Andis models) include levers for flexibility. Detachable blade clippers (like Oster 76) rely on swapping blades instead of levers. Cordless clippers usually include a lever for convenience. Knowing your clipper type helps you use it effectively.
Maintaining the Clipper Lever
The lever is a moving part, so it needs care. Keep it smooth by oiling regularly, cleaning off hair debris, and checking for looseness. If the lever becomes stiff or stuck, it may need tightening or minor repair. Avoid forcing it, as this can damage the mechanism.
Common Beginner Mistakes
Beginners often forget to adjust the lever while cutting, resulting in uneven lengths. Another mistake is not returning the lever to closed position before lining up edges. Overusing the open lever can leave cuts looking too bulky. Practice and awareness make a big difference.
Advanced Lever Techniques for Professionals
Experienced barbers use the lever dynamically, opening and closing it as they cut. This technique, called “lever play,” allows for precision fading, tapering sideburns, and detailing. With practice, you can fade without guards using only the lever and steady hand control.
Frequently Asked Questions About Clipper Levers
- Do all clippers have a lever?
- No, only adjustable clippers. Detachable blade models don’t need one.
- What’s the difference between open and closed lever?
- Open means longer cut; closed means shorter cut.
- Why is my clipper lever loose?
- It might need tightening or lubrication.
- Can you cut hair without guards using just the lever?
- Yes, but it takes practice and control.